Bite The Bullet

I have decided to bite the bullet. I am going to go out on a multi-day cycling trip. It might sound a bit too ambitious to choose this particular route as my first such tour but the temptation was too much to resist. Rana and I have decided to try to cycle to Mirik from Siliguri during the Poila Boisakh Good Friday week in April. The plan is we will go to Mirik on day one. Rest there the next day and then see where we can go. We might go to Sukhiapokhari or Maney or Dhotre or Lepchajagat or Ghoom. We shall see.

I have already ordered for a soft bicycle carrying bag from Trek n Earth on Amazon. We will take the Volvo bus to Siliguri. There we will spend a day there setting up the bike, taking rest and leaving the cycle bag and other such stuff at the Exide warehouse. I shall see if we can stay somewhere in Dudhia or Sukna area. So that the next morning's ride will be shorter. The real climb starts from Dudhia after one crosses the Balsan bridge. And it's an uphill climb for about 25 km.

If you google Mirik or Darjeeling cycling, you discover lots of commercial posts from tour operators offering cycling packages in that area. But there are just two old personal blog posts about cycling on this route. People who have themselves cycled from Siliguri to Mirik. One is by a foreigner who went from Siliguri to Mirik and the other is from a Calcuttan who seemed to exaggerate the experience a bit (it's just a hunch and I am seldom wrong on these hunches). Also they went with a support vehicle (the bikes have no pannier or bag or anything. Just one small water bottle). So their account need not be taken too seriously. Apparently they reached straight from NJP station to Mirik in a day.

Adrian's blog is more real. However, he does not describe the route in too much detail except to say that it is a series of switchbacks. I do not really depend too much on the foreigners' accounts because their physical and mental abilities and experiences are completely different from ours. But he took 11 hours to finish what he says is a 50 km ride. He says he had a huge load on the cycle.

Here is the blog by Adrian . He cycled this route in 2009 I think.
And here is the blog by Manasij . I think he also did this around 2010.

If I do this trip I promise to write an accurate travelogue so that others can do it as well.

As far as I could gather, it will be an uphill task. No doubt. We shall see how far we can reach. If I get overawed before the start then I shall never be able to even start. So best to prepare myself as much as possible and hope for the best. In a worst case scenario I can always walk the rest of the way from where I cannot cycle any more.

Rana has already booked a homestay in Mirik for two nights. The plan is to start from here on 12th night. Reach Siliguri by 13th morning. Start for Mirik on 14th from Siliguri. If we find something near Sukna or Dudhia we could stay there for the 13th night instead of staying in Siliguri.That way we get a head start on the next day. We spend the day in Mirik on 15th as well. On 16th we start towards Sukhiapokhari. From there we turn towards Manebhanjang. If we feel up to it, we might even go up to  Dhotre. If possible or feasible we might go to Rimbik or Srikhola the next day.

From Sukhia we might also opt to go towards Lepchajagat and then off to Ghoom.

We shall see. It's an open ended thing. The only things fixed are these - our start and return dates and that we are first going to Mirik.

My main worry right now is how to carry my stuff. I have no pannier rack. No pannier bag. I have nothing except a small front handlebar bag to carry my food and Gatorade etc and a small saddle bag to carry my tools. These are permanent fixtures on the bike. I am all for going for a front pannier rack from Surly and a pair of Ortlieb panniers. Both are available in India but that will set me back by 20k right away. It will also create more bulk. And as Rana says riding with a front pannier rack requires experience.

Rana says go for a 10 litre saddle bag from Trek n Ride like he has. Costs just Rs 1200. I want to check out his bag. I read a review that grinding with the bag is next to impossible. Apparently it also makes hill climbs a little unstable.

Now let me see what all I want to take for the trip.

I will be wearing at any given point of time while cycling

1. Half-sleeve jersey - 1
2. Cycling bib - 1
3. Socks
4. Cycling gloves (PI half) 
5. Cycling helmet (?) 
6. Quechua boots

I will be carrying the following clothing and related items

Includes a rainwear lower.
Won't take it

1. Half sleeve jersey - 1
2. Cycling bibs/shorts - 1
3. Dry fit material half sleeve - 1
4. Dry fit material full sleeve - 1
5.  Kappa track pant (really soft material with lining inside)  Marmot Transcend pants (poor man's rainwear) - 1
6. Briefs - 4  2 (needed only when I am not riding)
7. Socks - 3
8. Marmot Precip Rainwear - 1
9. Sierra Designs Jacket - 1
10. Woolen cap - 1
11. Quechua pique hat - 1
12. Towel - 1 (may buy a microlight from Decathlon)

Items for the front handlebar bag (to be packed inside a dry sack)

1. Rag - 1
2. Medicines (regular plus emergency)
3. Basic first aid kit (Boroline, gauge, cotton wool, Volini/Relispray, Band Aids) 
4. Toilet paper, soap, toothbrush, paste, 501 bar soap, Nivea, Suncream lotion, comb (these can go in the handlebar bag)
5. Head torch
6. Four spare batteries
7. Phone-charger-powerbank
8. Topeak gauge

Tools & Spares in saddle bag

1. Multi-tool
2. Tyre lever 
3. Chain link
4. Adjustable pliers
5. Tube repair kit
6. Chain cleaner and lube (?)
7. 
   

Attached To Bike

1. Bottle cages - 3
2. Pump
3. Front light
4. Back light
5. Spokes

March 16, 2019

As of now the plan is to go via Kurseong up Hill Cart Road and not via Mirik. I think the Mirik climb is much steeper than the Kurseong one.

Here is a complete list of the railway stations from the Indian Railway website that we will be passing on the route. If they are right on the road - I think they are - I am going to take a selfie in front of each one of them. I believe Gayabari and Sonada stations have been gutted in political agitation. One wonders if they have been restored.

Final Countdown 

April 8, 2019

Yesterday Sunday Someswar came to my house and packed the bike. The die is cast. I am a little scared now. I have a little OCD about preparation and packing. I always worry I have forgotten this and forgotten that. Now that the bike is packed and sealed in the box (Someswar felt since we will be going by bus and the luggage will be in the hold it is safer to use a cardboard box rather than the bag).

The bike is extremely well packed with foam tubes and zip ties etc. I forgot to take a pic of the finished packing. Will take one before taking the packaging off in Siliguri.

I am a bit nervous about putting it all back together myself in the Siliguri hotel room and more worryingly packing it equally well when I come back. He took the brake cable out and packed the handle in a different way from the way it came from Happy Earth. In fact, I think he did a better job than Happy Earth. He showed me how to put the brake cable back on through the barrel adjuster. I find the barrel adjuster very confusing. Must learn it once and for all.

Today I got all the items that will go together and put them in a box. These are the hardware kind of items. I think I am more or less covered. There are a few luxury items that I am taking till Siliguri. They will be left behind and not form part of my equipment list for the ride. Here is an image and now I will jot down the items one by one from the top.

1. Bungee cords - 2
2. Zip ties - 1 large, 1 small (to be left behind in Siliguri - TBLBS)
3. Bottle cages - 3
4. Schwalbe inner tube 2
5. Cello tapes - Green and brown (TBLBS)
6. Tin cutter (TBLBS)
7. Pliers (undecided whether TBLBS)
8. Pump
9. Allen key #4
10. Box wrench #8 and #9 (to hold the nuts of mudguards/carrier etc)
11. Sliding wrench (For Rana's pedals)
12. Tube repair kit in a box (with a spare chain link, two dust caps and a Presta to Schrader converter)
13. Multi-tool
14. Knife
15. Scissors (TBLBS)
16. Combination lock (not in the picture)
17. Chain Lubricant
18. A rag
19. Some spare allen screws M5

Sunday April 28, 2019

I am happy to inform that last Sunday I came back after a successful completion of the trip. It was fantastic. Nothing went wrong. Not even the weather. Read about the trip here

Fixing a Puncture on the Road

Yesterday the thing I dread most about cycling happened. I got a puncture. Not too far away from home but not a very walk able distance either. I was around 7 kms away from home. Right in front of All India Radio office. It was around quarter to six in the morning when it happened. It was the front tyre.

I will write down chronologically the exact chain of events. But first my mental reaction. "Oh God. Had to happen on a day when I am not carrying my pump. Didn't I just see Rana cross and wave at me near Eden Gardens (he was going towards Mohun Bagan stadium and I was headed towards HSBC)? He usually carries a pump on his back pocket. Let me see if he receives the phone. I have the spare tube in my saddle bag. Or shall I just get a cab and hop in? Feeling like I perhaps need a potty break. Can I wait for that long?"

I first took out my phone and switched off Strava. Next I phoned Rana. He not only received my phone but said most reassuringly, "just wait where you are. I am coming." After about ten minutes he came along. We met near the traffic island in front of the cenotaph where the road forks out towards AIR and Eden Gardens. 

I had half a mind to take a cab and just go home. Rana took the pump out and said, "do you have the tube?" I said yes. He said, change it. Sit comfortably on the side walk of the island and change the tube and then go home. "Oho Rana. Let me just take a cab home." "Dada, you take a cab. No problem. But first change the tube and then take a cab. You will not get another opportunity very soon of doing it on the road. Just do it. Don't avoid it." 

I thought what he says makes eminent sense. Instead of chickening out I should take the battle head on and win it. Once you go through the process next time you will be more confident. The conditions were right. Weather was fine. Hardly any people. India has this problem of onlookers crowding around you when they see you doing something on the road. Most importantly, I would not be completely alone. Rana would be around. 

Rana said he would be cycling around this area and come once every 15 minutes or so to check out on my progress. He was going in rounds along the route of Strand Road - Princep Ghat - Police Training School - Victoria - Fort William - Red Road. Those who are familiar with Calcutta would know this is a circular stretch of about 5/7 kms. 

I parked the bike against a lamp post. Looked at the watch. It was 6:08 am. 

Step one. Take the tools out and keep them ready. I took my tools out of the saddle bag. The spare new tube a Maxxis 700C 18-25 with a 48 mm valve stem, the Park Tool tyre lever set. That's all one needs really. 

Step Two. Take off the wheel. This takes a few seconds. I took off the front wheel. Next was to take the tube out. I had to struggle a bit with the levers. But finally I managed to take the tube out. To my utter surprise I discovered, the tube had still some air left in it and wasn't quite completely flat. I pushed the air out. I had half a mind to try and pump on the same tube and go home. Then I thought, what's the point. When the main work is done, might as well change the old tube. 

I cleaned the inside of the tyre but found nothing. I guess this was a very fine hidden sort of leak. I will have to research this out. The tube lasted for about 650 kms.

Now came the confusing part. The OE tube which had developed a puncture sits snug on the wheel. But this new tube was slightly longer than the OE one. About an inch more. Did I get the right size? I got a tad nervous here and decided to wait for Rana. Soon enough he arrived on the scene. I explained to him the problem. He checked it out and said nothing was wrong with the size. Push it in Dada. "By the way, why did you take off the entire tyre from the wheel?" "Well, I kind of thought this is the right thing to do." OK. Go ahead and put it back. 

Now started the struggle to put the tube round the wheel and fit the tyre back on. I cannot remember exactly what I did but there were lots of trial and errors and finally I succeeded in putting the damn thing back on. One of the tricks to know here is that use both your hands to put the tyre's edge back on so that it is done uniformly on both the sides. 

Next step was pumping the tube up. Rana's small pocket size pump did a wonderful job here. I do not know how much pressure it managed to create but it felt tight pretty soon; the tyre felt tight enough to take me home. After a few quick photographs I put the wheel back on. It had taken a total of 40 minutes to do the complete job. I think next time I can finish it in 20 minutes. I am more than certain.

All photographs taken after the tube was changed

Rana came along once again. I returned his pump with a lot of thanks. He indeed not only saved me, he gave me the courage and encouragement to earn this important right of passage in the world of cycling. My father would have been very proud of me. He always wanted me to learn this very important job of how to fix one's own punctures. But I could never learn it because we did not have youtube in those days. I am sure yesterday he saw me do it from wherever he is. I am very grateful to you for instilling these ambitions in me. Too bad you cannot see it all or I cannot go back home and tell you these stories. 

Lessons Learnt

1. I should have known the tube was bad even before starting. I found it was almost flat in the morning when I started. Tubes lose some air when you don't ride for some time. But they don't go flat like that. Alarm should have rung when I found the back wheel did not lose that much pressure. 

2. Always carry all your equipment. Pump, spare tube and levers. I was lucky I had Rana. I might not have him. I normally carry my small pump. But these days since I am riding mostly within city limits I got a little casual. But I have to remember that walking seven kilometers with a flat tyre bike is not easy or comfortable.

3. Should have perhaps checked out the new tube (Maxxis bought from Good Earth) in the comfort of my house rather than on the road. I have already ordered for the next tube. A Schwalbe 700 18-28C with 60 mm valve (my OE needs 48 but this brand does not seem to have that size. 40 or 60 - I chose 60). 

4. Don't be afraid of soiling your hands but you can use the gloves to take the wheel out. Also, overcome the inhibition to squat on the footpath. After completing the job, I used the water from my drinking bottle to wash my hands.

5. Have to practice taking off the rear wheel. It is not as easy as the front wheel. Particularly putting it back on. I have done it a few times. But it's like those tougher chapters in Mathematics. You do it once and then avoid, thinking you will somehow manage in the exam hall. In the exam hall a friend my bail you out but on the street there will be no one to help you.

6. Must carry small change for Sulav Souchalaya and some toilet paper in the saddle bag.

Epilogue

As I was riding back home slowly down the road near Victoria and it had gotten a bit late by my standard (around 7ish) I saw a group of amateur photographers out on their morning shooting practice. The probably spotted me before I did and started clicking me in all seriousness. I guess with my red bicycle and orange jersey I was perhaps looking like a professional cyclist to them (but a complete MAMIL to myself). I smiled at them. That possibly spoilt their frame but I surely felt like winning a stage in le Tour de France.

Back Home

Just checked the punctured tube. A. The core of the valve is possibly a fixed one and cannot be removed to apply Loctite (incidentally it is available in India now through Henkel). B. The pressure in the tube that I fixed on the road was just 20 psi. Disappointingly low and could cause another puncture if I had hit a hole in high speed. But as I said, it felt pretty tight to finger pressure. I have to check how good my own pump is. C. The air loss problem is not with the valve. There indeed is a leak that has developed just under the valve area. I filled the tube with a lot of air and sunk it in water. Bubbles immediately started coming out from a point. Possibly in low pressure the air loss isn't much. But nevertheless it is not insignificant. I am tempted to buy a puncture repair kit and fix it myself to keep it as a spare tube.

Fixing The Puncture

Certain things about Calcutta are so disgusting. After discovering the small puncture in the OE tube I was in a dilemma. Whether to fix it myself or get it done by one of the street side repair guys. I thought DIY would mean investing in a few patches, some cement and a piece of sandpaper (these repair guys typically paste the sandpaper around a small metal tube and make a nice sanding block that is useful). I have no problem with the investment but since I don't foresee too many punctures happening in the future I thought investing in the full kit would be a waste of money. Also the cement might freeze by the time the next puncture develops.

So last evening I went to the nearest puncture repair guy in the neighbourhood. This is a small shop near the Mudiali Meat Shop and they repair motorcycle, car and commercial vehicle tyres and tubes. I went with the OE tube and my mini pump because I foresaw them saying, "we don't have the adapter to pump this valve" etc. This bored looking Bihari shop owner (who didn't have any customer) took a casual look at the tube and said, "no we cannot do this" and looked the other way. I told him that I had the pump but he refused to listen, saying this is too small for them. He refused to get into any discussion and kept saying, "go to a cycle repair shop".

There is a second shop right next to the guy. This fellow didn't look as bored but he also denied. I asked him what is wrong and why is a cycle tube so different from a car tube. He said, this type of rubber is too thin and we don't have the right file to clean it. Our files would tear the rubber. Go to the cycle repair guys. They will do it with a sand paper !!!

Today I went to the nearest cycle repair shop. This is just before Grand Saloon. The bugger is closed.  It was in the evening. Around 7.30 pm. He is not even a shop. Just sits by the road side with a floor standing pump and a wooden box with some tools. But I see him busy fixing a bike almost all the time.

Adamant. I went all the way to Kalighat Road (the friendly neighbourhood red light district) where there is a big cycle repair shop. It's a proper shop with 2/3 mechanics. This bugger is also closed. Had to come back home fuming.

However, I learnt to push out the last mili gram of air out of the tube. You just roll it up like a tooth paste tube, working towards the valve and keep pressing the valve from time to time. Every single drop (?) of air would come out and the tube would become completely flat.